Kerasus Wine Project

All Natural Winemaking from the Black Sea

Exploring Kerasus Winery: A Curious Journey into the Natural Wines of Turkey's Black Sea Region

Kerasus Wine Qveri (Kveri) used for wine fermentation — Qveri (Kveri) used for wine fermentation

I've recently come across a fascinating name in the Turkish natural wine scene—Kerasus Winery. Although I have yet to taste their wines myself, the story behind Kerasus Winery, founded in 2019 by Gizem Billur Duyar, instantly captured my curiosity. This winery isn’t just making wine; it’s reviving forgotten indigenous grapes from the lush, mountainous Black Sea region of Turkey, particularly around Giresun.

Who is behind Kerasus Winery?

Gizem Billur Duyar, trained at the Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi in Istanbul, began her journey through an unexpected route: a deep dive into Anatolian culinary heritage. While studying ancient recipes and ingredients, Gizem found herself intrigued by the historical significance of wine in Anatolian cuisine. What caught my attention was her thoughtful question—why wasn’t wine more prominent in Giresun, a region traditionally known for grapes, (and where Greeks had made wine for centuries) and particularly the İsabella grape variety, widely appreciated as a table grape but neglected in winemaking?

Rediscovering the Isabella Grape Variety and Beyond

Interestingly, Gizem discovered focused on Isabella, a Vitis labrusca grape variety (likely imported from America in the late 1800s to resist the devastating phylloxera epidemic). Historically, Giresun had a rich wine tradition, with even the ancient geographer Strabo mentioning the quality of Pontus grapes. Yet, this heritage faded away over the last 100 or so years.

Could Isabella claim its position as a significant winemaking grape? Gizem seems to think so, starting small by purchasing a 100-liter Georgian-style qvevri—traditional clay vessels known for their distinct ability to ferment wines naturally. She carefully glazed the inside with beeswax, a technique she learned while training with her mentors, Udo Hirsch and Hacer Özkaya of Gelveri in Cappadocia, pioneers in natural amphora-fermented Turkish wines.

Natural Wines in the Qvevri Tradition

Ancient Wine Amphora Kerasus Wines — Ancient Wine Amphora

Kerasus Winery stands out with its unwavering commitment to natural winemaking. All grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with native yeasts. Gizem began this artisanal process modestly, initially producing wine in Istanbul with just 220 kg of Isabella grapes from Giresun, meticulously crushed and sorted manually.

What intrigues me deeply is the qvevri method she employs—clay vessels typically (but not always) buried underground, providing a stable environment for wine fermentation and maturation. This ancient technique, famously preserved in Georgian winemaking, is something rare and perhaps unparalleled in Turkey's Black Sea region. I wonder how the wines reflect this distinctive terroir of Giresun along the Black Sea.

Married Vines and Agroforestry

Kerasus Wines Vines growing on trees — Vines growing on trees

Another fascinating aspect of Kerasus Winery is its dedication to the viticultural practice: the "married vine" method—where vines climb and entwine around trees, growing up to six meters high (from the Italian "vite maritata'. This as an Etruscan tradition emphasizing a harmonious relationship between vine and tree, allowing natural growth and biodiversity. Kerasus wines seeks to preserve and discover such forgotten grapes in the Black Sea region.

She continues sourcing grapes from high-altitude villages like Şebinharahisar, located at over 2200 meters elevation, an area renowned for its grape molasses. How do these high-altitude conditions—with cooler temperatures and prolonged ripening—affect the grapes’ complexity?

Unique Blends and Varietals

Kerasus Wines Amber Wine 'Melez' — Amber Wine 'Melez'

Kerasus Winery does not stop at Isabella. Gizem has explored grapes like Ağa Üzümü, whimsically called the "Feudal lord grape," sourced from Tamzara village. She has also crafted intriguing blends, like the "Melez" amber wine or orange wine—a mixture of Isabella (Vitis labrusca) and Narince (Vitis vinifera). This blend evokes curiosity: how do these two dramatically different grape species harmonize in the glass? Reports suggest notes of clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and yellow apple on the nose, paired with hibiscus, cherry, and tomato on the palate. This complexity is striking, yet one wonders—does this ambitious blend achieve balance?

In addition, Gizem has ventured into Petillant Naturel (Pét-Nat) wines from Isabella, capturing natural bubbles through ancestral fermentation methods. Such experimentation raises questions about consistency and stability in these naturally sparkling wines. Are they delightfully unpredictable, or do they reflect a skillful command of the technique?

Expanding Collaborations and Varieties

Kerasus Winery's journey continues to evolve collaborating with Akberg Winery to produce distinct wines. Working together they have made 3 new wines with grapes from the 1000 m high Otmanlar Village of Köyceğiz ın Muğla province on the Mediterranean. Varieties of Çumbul and Sıksarı grapes have intriguing aromatic profiles, boasting notes of poppy, leather, cranberry, fenugreek, and basil. Such bold, unconventional aromas intrigue me greatly. Yet again, I wonder how do they taste?

Another fascinating grape, Hırtariş, has recently been added to Kerasus's repertoire. This ongoing exploration of forgotten local varieties keeps me curious about what Gizem might uncover next. Each grape and each new blend seems to tell another chapter of a story that has yet to be fully revealed.

Reflections and Questions

As someone who has yet to taste these wines firsthand, my curiosity is paired with natural hesitation. Will these natural wines, often more vulnerable to variability, offer a enjoyable experience ? Or will their charm reside precisely in their unpredictability?

How do the qvevri method and married vine techniques truly influence the wines' character? Do these ancient methods translate well in Turkey’s Black Sea terroir, enhancing the grapes’ inherent qualities, or will there be elements of rusticity and roughness?

Finally, the passion and curiosity driving Gizem and Kerasus Winery are clear and contagious. Her journey, deeply rooted in historical rediscovery and ecological harmony, embodies the spirit of innovation and respect for tradition. But questions linger—how broadly will these unique wines appeal? Will wine enthusiasts embrace their unconventional profiles? And perhaps most importantly, will Kerasus Winery inspire a revival of traditional viticulture throughout Turkey?

A Winery to Watch

Without having yet tasted a drop, Kerasus Winery captivates with promise, heritage, and mystery. Gizem’s bold embrace of ancient techniques and natural processes invites wine lovers to reconsider what they know about Turkish wine. Each bottle of Kerasus seems to represent a leap of faith—a commitment to authenticity, sustainability, and exploration. Until I can savor these wines personally, Kerasus Winery remains a compelling mystery—an enticing question mark on Turkey’s vibrant wine map.

I eagerly await the opportunity to experience firsthand the wines crafted by Gizem Billur Duyar and Kerasus Winery, hoping to discover if the reality matches the intriguing promise.