Chris Vannoy
Sep 9, 20234 min
As you head from Izmir to Cesme on the super highway (Izmir-Cesme Otoyol) you'll notice just after passing Urla a majestic horse farm on the south side of the road - what you might not realize is this is also an excellent winery with red wines that are bold, tannic, flavourful, but who mostly all require a good bit of decanting. That place is Mozaik Winery.
Started apparently by a family (Ali and Melis Emin) from Izmir to breed horses they also make excellent wines. Typically they focus on Italian red wine varieties- somewhat unique in Turkey where for other reasons most wineries are chasing French and particulary Bordeaux styles. Though Mozaik also has some of those too. In any case, they have produced wine for close to 15 years and market under the Mahrem label.
If you like red wine with great structure, but need to managed well when you open the bottle (i.e. decanted properly), then Mahrem from Mozaik has some wines for you.
Like most wineries in Urla, this is located near the sea in small valleys surrounded by pine and scrub forests. This area 100 or more years ago was actively cultivated for grapes, but has only recently returned to a major center of grape and wine production. But the wild forests around add a sense of serenity to the vineyards. Also, it supports the idea that they can do organic farming as there isn't a lot of other production crops nearby and the land has typically sat fallow for many years.
This vineyard produces around 50,000 bottles a year and the wine isn't widely available. Apparently most of it is snatched up by red wine loving locals that order direct from the producer. So, you'll likely only find this wine at boutique wine sellers or
restaurants locally to Urla that focus on high end wine.
In fact that's where I had one of my more memorable Shiraz, at the Wine House Urla, they recommended a 2012 or 13 Mahrem Syrah and it was maybe the best Shiraz I had in Turkey up to this point. Found it - 2012- I enjoyed in 2023. These wines can easily do 10-15 years and I would say need at least 6+ years to really cool off, they go into the bottles pretty strong and if you drink the most recent release with no decanting, you'll see.
The vineyards are all planted by the Emin family in the 2006 years, and consist of Syrah, Sangiovese, Corinto, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Marselan, Ekigaïna, and Rebo grap varieties. Organic, no irrigation produces wines with strength and character.
Here I've listed the Mozaik wines in the order in which I would recommend them, but do try them all and decide for yourself!
TANNAT
I've not tasted this one as the price is extremely high, but it is a very limited production and the only Tannat in Turkey as far as I know. Those who have spent the $ say it is excellent, expresso, leather, big tannins. Until someone buys me a bottle, I'll take their word for it.
PETIT VERDOT + REBO
Rebo is very uncommon in Italy where it originates and elsewhere - it is Teroldego and Merlot hybrid. Blended with Petit Verdot, this is black everything, blackberry, black cherry, black plum, black licorice, black pepper, but smoother than expected due to lower alcohol.
SYRAH
I really like this, its a bit of a twist, with more spice and tannin and less fruit forward than most Syrah, This is a no brainer choice for me. I love it, and the price is respectable for the quality of production.
MARSELAN
This is a grape that I really enjoy and Mahrem is no different. Complex but smooth and balanced. If the Ekigaina below is a wild stallion, this is a well trained quarterhorse.
SANGIOVESE
A good example but the time I tasted it needed more aeration as it was too tannic for my taste, and I love tannins. I think aging even more would make this outstanding.
EKIGAÏNA
A rare hybrid of CS and Tannat, my experience with this was not decanted enough. It was a bit wild, strong, harshness that I suspect would balance out with 1+ hour of decanting. This wine has the sense to me it was made at a horse farm, needing proper handling to control it!. I look forward to trying it again but the CS zing may be too much for me.
RÜYA
Made from Corinto grapes, a rosé. They also have Derya a white wine from Sangiovese I believe.
CORINTO
Never tried it but hear its a smoother relateive of Sangiovese, so if you want something not quite so punchy, look here.
There isn't the big wine tour setup here. What they have is a small house with some inside and outside seating where you can taste a range of their wines and then buy what you like. Some people have trouble finding it, but they have signage on the main road leading you there. Its a quick stop but only open business hours from around 10-5 and not everyday. Call ahead to be sure if you want their big red wines.
Kuşçular, 8015. Sk. No:6,
35430 Urla/İzmir, Türkiye
Tel: 0232 465 0321
e-mail: info@mozaiksarapcilik.com
http://www.mozaiksarapcilik.com/
https://www.instagram.com/mozaikwinery/
Located literally 1/2 hour from Izmir by car